Day 21 - Tuestag 30 April 2013

From - Schaffhausen
To - Konstanz
Distance - 67km
Time - 5 hours
Total - 1612km

Three weeks done! May I thank you for a) reading the blog and b) making contact by email, text or Skype. I appreciate all the contact as it helps me to think about something other than what I should eat next.

My update from last night - I stayed in the hostel and had a chat with some of the other people. It turned out that a Canadian couple weren't quite Canadian. The man had joint nationality between Canadian and Czech. His partner was Czech and they both spoke Hungarian and English and worked in Switzerland. It's a small world. An English girl called Rebecca was taking an extended holiday to travel independently through Switzerland and Germany before she reached her 30th birthday. I told her I was cycling across Europe for exactly the same reason. She looked convinced, for at least half a second!

I quickly realised why German red wines are not well represented on the supermarket shelves in the UK. I tried to palm it off on the others but they were too wise. I ended up drinking on my own again. It wasn't so bad that I would throw it away. No, I don't drink a whole bottle, it lasts two nights!

The sleeping arrangements at the hostel were dormitories for 10 people. It was not 10 in a bed, so don't let your imagination run away with you! There were only 6 in the room but unusually the room was mixed sex. The night passed without incident, in fact we were all in bed by 10pm and surprisingly the bunks were not the normal squeaky variety that creak every time you turn over. The hostel itself had lots of character, the lounge had walnut panelled walls and the staircase was spiral like in a castle.

All that and I haven't even started on today.

The breakfast was really good again, especially considering it was in a hostel and not a hotel. I got away around 9am. The journey was fairly short. I know that I put photos of various towns I pass on the blog and they look good but it doesn't properly represent the beauty of the places. Every town and village is lovely and I could take numerous photos in all directions and in different streets and they would all be great. The grey weather doesn't help much either with the photos. The weather has managed again to stay dry and a little warmer each day. I risked cycling in my shorts again.

The route took me through the lovely Swiss town of Stein am Rhine where I bumped into a Swiss family who had been at the hostel last night. They hadn't really spoken last night but they spoke to me in the town in perfect English. It's nice meet nice people. Whilst on that subject I have been running a psychological test of my own over the last few days. Most of you will know that I did a years psychology course with he Open University and I am very thorough about my tests! I have been testing out what proportion of German cyclists respond to a friendly 'hallo' whilst I pass them. I am sad to say that less than 30% actually respond and almost none say 'hallo' to me without me initiating the friendly comment. I must say the French were better with their 'bonjours'. There doesn't seem to be a camaraderie amongst cyclists here like there is back home. Having said that, there have been a lot of cyclists about and it becomes a bit of a chore saying 'hallo' to them all. Cycling is a big deal around here and lots of people use them for their daily transport. The railway stations have loads of cycles parked up presumably used by people who catch a train to work.

On a different note I haven't had a schnitzel since I entered Germany. I know you may be concerned about this but I will let you know how I go on!

I left the route of the Eurovelo 6 to head towards Konstanz, that means the end of the Rhine and the beginning of Lake Constance named Bodensee by the Germans. I had a picnic lunch myself at Radolfzel, which was a town of character. There were market stalls and I bought a chocolate and raspberry tart from a stall, yum yum!

Konstanz was my final destination and from what I have seen its a large bustling town. Lots of cycling and cycle paths all over the place. The old town is good, maybe not the best I've seen but a nice lake front with ships offering trips on the lake. The word lake doesn't do it justice, it's more of an inland sea and it is approx 200km around, it makes Windermere look like a tiddler.

The guest house I am at is right in the middle of the old town. It is clean and practical. The prices are certainly better than France and breakfast is included in the price. I popped to a supermarket to get a few provisions for tomorrow because 1st May is a public holiday (thanks for tipping me off Matthew). Tomorrow could be my hardest cycling day so far, I believe there is a lot of climbing so I will need my energy and an early start. First I will have to retrace my steps to rejoin the Eurovelo 6 route.

I notice from the Internet that I have been overlooked again for the British Lions tour to Australia. Warren Gatland called me earlier in the week to tell me that he thought my cycling was commendable but it wasn't the fitness preparation he was looking for for prospective Lions! Dreaming again eh!

Just back from a lovely meal at a harbour restaurant. I had asparagus and salmon suppe and then pork steaks with vegetables in a creamy mushroom sauce. I haven't had many vegetables since i started! Still no schnitzel! I had a walk around town and some shops are still open and the bars are doing good business. There appears to be an absence of 'riff raff' which makes a nice change. I can image this place being really busy in he summer.

Photo 1, Stein am Rhine.
Photo 2, First view of Lake Constance - sorry its a bit grey.
Photo 3, Radolfzel town.
Photo 4, Konstanz Munster.
Photo 5, Harbour area at Konstanz.
Photo 6, Gasthouse Gretel, where I am staying.

Day 20 - Montag 29 April 2013

From - Bad Sackingen
To - Schaffhausen
Distance - 79km
Time - 6 hours
Total - 1545km

Nothing doing in town last night but it was a pleasant walk and it stopped me going to bed at 8.30pm.

This mornings breakfast was the best yet. Proper continental breakfast with the cereals, yogurts, fresh fruits, sliced meats and cheeses, choice of nice breads, croissants and loads of different jams and honey. I pigged out and still managed to swipe an apple and some bread for later. That's such a good thing about cycling you don't have to watch your weight.

The cycling was steady but got a bit hilly towards the end. I kept switching between Switzerland and Germany so the signs change but both sides of the river were good tracks or roads. There was one section of really busy traffic but I was in a cycle path clear of the main road itself and it only lasted a couple of kilometres. The weather was very grey but it never actually rained. Every day I stay dry is a bonus. Laufenburg and Waldshut were both nice towns. I nearly forgot I got a coffee and two pastries and a bottle of fanta at a bakers on the German side of Laufenburg. The ladies were really nice and chatted in English. I was pleasantly surprised that the price was 6 euros. It would be much more in France or Switzerland. Around lunch time I saw some. Loaded cycles outside a traditional looking cafe. I went it and ordered a Wurstsladt. I expected lettuce leaves and some nice smoked dried meat sausage sliced. What I actually got was probably a shredded sausage of processed ham and shredded cheese in a thin mayonnaise dressing. It was accompanied with three gherkin slices and three slices of boiled egg. It wasn't really the healthy option that I was looking for. I have lived off ham and cheese half the trip so didn't want more. Anyway, there was plenty of it and plenty of nice bread as well. Again, it seemed good value compared to France.

I was still sticking to my policy of not buying any Swiss Francs. Every time I went into Switzerland I didn't buy anything. I was looking to make sure I had provisions for teatime because Schaffhausen is actually in Switzerland. I had my normal stuff, pâté, tabbouleh (very good, tasty and healthy), bread and an apple. I just needed something to wash it down with. I saw an Aldi supermarket that was in Germany, it turned out to be the last shop before I went into Switzerland for the last time. I purchased the last essential.... yes a bottle of red wine. Not just any bottle, it was the most expensive bottle of German red wine in the place, it cost me 4 euros.



Photo 1, Town Square at Waldshut.
Photo 2, Making friends! A collection is someone's garden in a village I passed through.
Photo 3, Rhein Falls.
Photo 4, Swiss Police Station - why can't that have modern ugly ones like we do?
Photo 5, Even this is what a shoe shop looks like in Switzerland.
Photo 6, Shopping street in Schaffhausen.
Photo 7, The Munot that overlooks the town. Lovely views and it was free!
Photo 8, Schaffhausen Youth Hostel.

Day 19 - Dimanche 28eme Avril 2013

From - Mulhouse
To - Bad Sackingen
Distance - 86km
Time - 6.5 hours
Total - 1466km

The choucroute was lovely. It was different cuts of ham and pork with sausages and sauerkraut. There was plenty of it as well which suited me. It is the first night I have eaten at a restaurant. Most of my meals out have been lunchtime meals and you feel a bit more conspicuous eating by yourself at night. Don't think I'm getting all lonely and self conscious, I'm just explaining what it feels like. It was raining heavily again when I came out of the restaurant and I got wet through on the way back to the hostel. The good news was that the radiator in my room was nice and hot so I got things dried out quickly. These rest days are so tiring, I was ready for an early bed and no more drinking with the ex French army chap.

Of course this is my last day in France and I have already got the German dictionary out. I will be practicing my guttural pronunciation. You may think I won't have a problem speaking from the gutter but I remind you that I was 'well brung up'! My German is worse than my French but I have plenty of time to practice.

It is also a Sunday. My tactics will be to have a normal hostel breakfast that includes as much bread as I can politely get. Then get out on the bike around 9am and buy a few provisions to last me through the day. I had spotted a Carrefour mini-supermarket that is open from 9am so that did nicely for bread, cheese and pâté.

The weather had actually stayed dry. I was cold for the first 15km but managed to warm up as I cycled. I got the the point where the Canal du Rhone au Rhin actually joined the Rhine. It wasn't a wonderful sight but it was significant as I could see Germany on the other side. I knew i was getting close to Germany as the people on the track were walking dachunds, rotweillers and schnauzers instead of poodles. I got a bit confused about what sort of greeting I should give people as I pass. I stopped at a little fair on the side of a small river, still in France but within sight of Switzerland and Germany. It was in aid of the canoeing club and local school. I was collared for a ticket to enter the duck race that was scheduled for 6pm tonight. The father of the boy who sold me the ticket spoke good English and I told him I did not know which language to try. He suggested English was best because 'all the Germans speak English an the Swiss speak all the languages'. By the time I am writing this I could be the winner.

I crossed the footbridge into Germany and had my picture taken to commemorate the occasion. After 200 metres of Germany I crossed to Switzerland. I had my passport ready for scrutiny but no-one was working at either border. In fact I have crossed the border between Germany and Switzerland about three times and haven't seen a customs official. I have studiously been trying to avoid buying Swiss Francs and so far it has worked. I cycled into Basel and looked at a couple of churches and the town hall in the old town. Very nice town hall. Whilst in German speaking countries it s very easy to make smutty jokes about the signs eg Einfart. I must however apologise for the photo of a museum you will see later. You will know what I mean!

I had my lunch on a bench overlooking the Rhine and then nipped back into Germany. I rode more leisurely to Bad Sackingen because the temperature was better and also there were nice places to see. I prefer this area to France, it has lots of character and seems cleaner and more orderly. The town of Rhinefeld is split between Germany and Switzerland. The Swiss side was a lovely town centre but of course I didn't stop to spend money because I had no currency.

On my way to Bad Sackingen I heard some music coming from a Garden Centre. It turned out to be my first 'lederhosen' encounter. There was a middle aged band dressed in lederhosen entertaining the shoppers. There was also a barbecue and bar. So, I posed as a prospective customer and listened to classic covers of popular music such as 'I feel good' by James Brown and 'Brown girl in the ring' by Boney M amongst others. I can't say the tracks were made for a German middle aged oompa band but at least they gave it a go. It was an experience for sure.

On my arrival at Bad Sackingen I was pleasantly surprised to find it was the Spring Festival and the town centre was crammed with stalls and people. A very nice place it is too. I don't usually take pictures inside churches because they are usually dull and a bit repetitive unless you are a stain glass fan. I did, however, take a picture inside this church because it was quite stunning especially for a medium size town most people have never heard of. I had a coffee and a blue berry cake at the Rothaus Cafe. It probably won't be the last picture of a Rat House you will see whilst I travel through Germany.

It has been a genuinely interesting day with all sorts of things happening. I didn't even mention seeing a woodpecker really close up or the hydro-electric dams across the Rhine.

The hotel is just outside town but is lovely, clean and modern. It will probably be a contrast to the hostel I have booked for tomorrow at Schaffhausen where I am booked into a room for 10, it could be interesting!

I will probably revert to English dates unless I get the time to work out German days and dates.

Photo 1, The canal meets the Rhine.
Photo 2, Duck Race poster.
Photo 3, White water canoeing.
Photo 4, Me on the bridge over the Rhine to Germany.
Photo 5, Town Hall at Basel.
Photo 6, Museum at Basel, be careful with the name!
Photo 7, Lederhosen oompah band.
Photo 8, inside Bad Sackingen church.
Photo 9, Rothaus at Bad Sackingen.
Photo 10, Festival.

Day 18 - Samedi 27eme Avril 2013

Rest Day at Mulhouse.

Last night was probably the best night so far in terms of nightlife. Don't get too excited, I was in bed for half past eleven. I went to the Shamrock Bar which is just across the road from the Hostel. I met the French chap who is also staying at the hostel. He was called Gilbert and he was seeing his stepdaughter Claudia. He was amused when I pointed out that he was named after a rugby ball brand! It turned out that Claudia was depressed and he had come to visit and cheer her up! Anyway, he had retired from the French Army two years ago and he repeatedly told me that the British Army was the best and the Queen was great. I had a drink with him and thn headed into the city to a bar recommended by the Warden. It was buzzing. I had what they call a 'flambé' and a salad. The flambé was like a thin pizza and was really nice. The service was good and I was asked to sit at a long table with a group of local people and they were nic nd spoke to me. There was also a music quiz going on and so I helped out on the songs that were too old for them. They liked my clue for The Monkees, 'I'm a believer'! Certainly it's a good friendly place that I wouldn't have found without a recommendation.

A slow start in the morning. I had breakfast and spent most of the morning on the Internet trying to find my Sunday night accommodation. It transpires that Basel is full as its the biggest business fair of the year. I have therefore decided to cycle further to a town further on where I managed to get a hotel at a reasonable price.

The rain has been pouring from early morning but I had to go out as the hostel closes during the afternoon. I took my bike and went to visit the Train musee and then the Automobile Musee. Both are massive and well worth visiting on a rainy day. In the Car museum I went in a car that was rotated 360 degrees which was a weird feeling a bit like a fairground ride.

The rain dryer up when I rode back to the hostel but it is still cold. I have bumped into Gilbert again who seems to want another drink but I will try to avoid him because he will probably say all the same things again. I fancy a traditional Alsace meal called 'choucroute', I'll tell you what is involves tomorrow.

Photo 1, Someone's fingers in a sandwich!
Photo 2, Most expensive car in the world - it's a Bugatti.
Photo 3, The rotating car.
Photo 4. Formula 1 racing cars.
Photo 5, The fastest car in the world - It's a Bugatti, can you spot the theme!
Photo 6, A black train, it's not a Bugatti and its not the fastest or most expensive train.

Day 17 - Vendredi 26eme Avril 2013

From - Montbeliard
To - Mulhouse
Distance - 64km
Time - 3.5 hours
Total - 1363km

A short cycling day today and for the first time I felt that that the wind was genuinely behind me all the way. I think that psychologically cyclists always think thewi d is against them because ven when there is no wind the rider creates his own wind by riding forwards and therefore it seems there is a headwind. That's my theory anyway. Today was different because I was riding up to 10kph faster on the flat.

Their wasn't much of note on the route except that I stopped or coffee and spoke to a German woman cyclist called Antje who was going in the opposite direction. She was actually mixing her cycling with train journeys to get to the south of France. She worked in a university near Hanover. She did say the name and I think it was Gottingen!

The weather has been overcast but still reasonably warm, everyone else has a jacket on but I am cycling in a T shirt because I'm tough and from the north of England where we know what real cold is! The route sticks close to the Canal du Rhone au Rhin and will continue to do so till we get to the Rhine near Basel. There was a series of 12 locks one after the other all about 100 metres apart near a town called Montreax le Chateau. I checked the town out but found no chateau, it should be reported under the European Trades Description Act but would probably get off under Human Rights Law as it would be an invasion of its right to privacy!!

As I travelled the villages started to look a bit more chalet like and the place names suddenly sounded German. This is now the Alsace region famous for white wine and police dogs! I was at Mulhouse for lunchtime. The 'house' of Mulhouse is pronounced like 'hoose'. The centre has a very German feel to t and the Mulhouse itself is the decorated pink building in the photos. There is also some association with William Tell but I'm not exactly sure what yet. I am keeping my apple securely in my pannier and I am not about to make any new overtures! I made my own lunch sitting on a stone block in the main square washed down with a lovely Alsace Riesling wine.

I have been trying to get my bearings in the city but I am struggling to work out which direction I am walking (or cycling) in. It's OK if I use the mapping on my iPad because it also shows me which direction I am walking in.

The hostel is about 15 minutes walking outside the centre and seems good. I was the first person to arrive, shortly followed by a French guy who seemed to want a drink later. I will try not to disappoint him. The warden is really helpful and will tell me what to see in the city. He is also an Eels fan. I know that won't mean much to most of you but they are an American band that I saw in concert about a month ago in Manchester. Whilst I am here writing the blog it has started raining and I guess it may not stop till Sunday so you can think 'ha ha', I deserve the bad weather after the gloating I have been doing over that last three days.

I will definitely stay here two nights. So I don't get soaked riding tomorrow and also because I have a problem of being too far ahead of the non existent schedule I have. I don't want to finish the ride before we get to June.

More people are arriving at the hostel, so I haven't got it to myself completely.

Photo 1, Horses in a field and a small Alsacian village.
Photo 2, Mulhouse, the actual house!
Photo 3, William Tell Street.
Photo 4, My lunch.
Photo 5, Me standing outside the Cathedral.
Photo 6, Metal statue in Mulhouse.
Photo 7, Mulhouse Hostel.

Day 16 - Part 2

Don't get excited. I just thought you might want to see the photos of the chateau at Montbeliard. By the way the song for the day is 'Sunscreen' by Baz Luhrmann, it's the best advice you will ever get, listen carefully.

Day 16 - Jeudi 25eme Avril 2013

From - Besancon
To - Montbeliard
Distance - 98km
Time - 7 hours
Total - 1299km

Yes I had a better breakfast, thank you! It wasn't exactly fancy meats and pastries but there was cereals, yogurts, fruit and as much bread and coffee as I wanted.

I was out in the georgeous sunshine at 8.10am. I can't express how good it is to start with the sun shining and the cool air rushing past you as you cycle along a river or canal in total peace, with no-one else in view. This is the life. I took a nice snap of the reflection of the opposite banking on he Doubs. I had a brief stop at Beame les Dames to eat a piece of my homemade Grasmere style gingerbread. I know what you are thinking about 'best before dates'. Don't worry about that, I've had it in the tin at home for up to a month and its fine, well there's been no repercussions so far! As i was unwrapping the cling film I was thinking more about what it would look like to the police if they found this substance in my possession and how I would try and convince them that it wasn't an illegal substance. Of course, they wouldn't let me eat it in an effort to prove it was food because they would think I was getting rid of the evidence. I've still got one piece left. I should probably eat it tomorrow in case I get checked at the border.

I carried on to L'Isle sur le Doubs and was pleased to find a restaurant with a menu de jour for 11 euros, that's 3 courses included. Before I ate I spoke to an English couple who were holidaying in a camper van and were out for a bike ride. He had previously done a large part of the Eurovelo 6 and was telling me about some hills coming up at Schaffhausen, he was trying to cheer me up! Not that I needed it because the day was so hot and sunny.

My meal comprised of a plate of sliced meats and cournichons (pickled gherkins), then sliced beef with mushrooms and rice and finished with my current favourite pudding, an Ille Flotante. As I was eating Phillip cycled past again. I called to him and we briefly spoke. He carried on and I caught him up after my meal.

We cycled into Montbeliard together. We went quite slow as he said he had a hangover and had fallen off his bike earlier. He spoke good English and was good company. He is a 28 year old civil engineer who lives in Paris. He once worked on attachment at the steelworks at Scunthorpe, so he's seen the best of what the UK can offer. We had a drink in Montbeliard and he had something to eat. Our conversation covered the French and British Governments and the death of Margaret Thatcher! The chances are we could keep bumping into each other. He tends to ride in the afternoon whilst I set off early in the morning.

I have been working on a translation for the town of Montbeliard and the best (most childish) thing I have come up with is 'big hard belly', well what an you expect when I have been on my own for so long! The town looks clean and nice. I haven't seen he chateau yet but will have a look this evening. I have treated myself to the Hotel d'France which is a small but grand hotel. The range of places I have been staying is quite vast. Tomorrow I'm back in hostel land at Mulhouse. It's the last place I will stay in France. I may have a rest day there as well because the weather forecast on Saturday is dire. It should be wet and 3 degrees centigrade. I might sit it out.

Photo 1, Reflection in the Doubs
Photo 2, Me and Phillip
Photo 3, A square at Montbeliard
Photos 4, 5 & 6, Hotel d'France.

Day 15 - Mercredi 24eme Avril 2013

Start - Dole
Finish - Besancon
Distance - 64km
Time - 3 hours
Total - 1193km

Dole Youth Hostel isn't getting any recommendations from me. I went for my breakfast and found it across the road tucked in the basement with virtually no signs. There were me and two German women. I didn't really expect too much for 4 euros but the on,y member of staff asked about coffee and orange juice, which I answered in the affirmative. He came out of the kitchen with a large trolley on wheels and presented me with the coffee cup, the orange in a glass and 3 pieces of bread and one carton of peach jam. I thought to myself that he will go back in the kitchen and bring the cereals or pastries but nothing was forthcoming. I wasn't going to be able to cycle far on 3 pieces of bread. I had to go and ask for more and I got the same again. I don't think this place is going to get any Michelin stars anytime soon! I went straight to the nearest boulangerie and got a 'Swiss' pastry which is filled with patisserie cream and chocolate chunks.

I didn't mention that the weather was beautiful from the word go and I started my short distance to Besancon along the Doubs and the Canal du Rhone au Rhin. The scenery had changed and the land rose more steeply either side of the river. The house rooves were now all red tiled. I had a nice coffee along the way near Dampierre, it made me think of my younger brother, Peter, I'm not sure why!

I got to Besancon by 12 noon and what a grand place it is. The Citadel's ramparts over the river are spectacular. More importantly though it was lunchtime. I got a veal provencal with sauté potatoes and green beans and then went for a walk in the town. I checked out the church of St Pierre and when I came out I spotted Phillip who I had met three days ago. He was on his way cycling to Istanbul. He was making his lunch on the public benches of the busy church square. We had a good chat and he filled me in with what he had been doing etc. He took a photo of me in front of the carousel and the church. We said our farewells again as he was setting off and we guessed we might bump into each other again. Though the odds of me seeing him in this busy city had been very slim we may see each other on the route in the next few days.

I went for a walk past the church of St Jean (another one) to the Citadel. I was debating with myself whether it would be worth the entry fee but I did pay and I didn't regret it. It was really interesting and varied as well as the spectacular views. Have a look at the photos. There were various exhibitions, an aquarium and a little zoo all packed in.

Next on the agenda always finding the Hostel I was intending to stay at. What a pleasant surprise. It is open all the time, it's fresh and clean with toilets and showers in the room. It did cost more than the other one but so what. I had a quick shower and set about using the automatic washing machine and dryer to work on most of my clothes. I hope that puts your minds at rest that I am looking after all my personal hygiene chores. Strangely it is a question quite a few people ask me about, I wonder why!

Photo 1, Besancon Citadel as I approached.
Photo 2, Me standing outside St Pierre Church.
Photo 3. View from the Citadel.
Photo 4, View from the Citadel.
Photo 5, Inside one of the Citadel courtyards.
Photo 6, View over the City.
Photo 7, Bar and Foyer of the Hostel.