Day 84 - Martedì 2 Luglio 2013

Arrivederci Roma!

You maybe thought that the blog was finished. It will be after this one.

I thought I would waste some of your time with a few Roman quotations. I am certainly not idling whilst Rome burns!

Julius Caesar said:-

"What we wish, we readily believe, and what we ourselves think, we imagine others think also".

"Experience is the teacher of all things".

"If you must break the law, do it to seize power: in all other cases observe it".

Claudius said:-

"Say not always what you know, but always know what you say".

"Acquaintance lessens fame".

Cicero said:-

"Six mistakes mankind keeps making century after century:
Believing that personal gain is made by crushing others;
Worrying about things that cannot be changed or corrected;
Insisting that a thing is impossible because we cannot accomplish it;
Refusing to set aside trivial preferences;
Neglecting development and refinement of the mind;
Attempting to compel others to believe and live as we do".

And lastly,

"Where there's life, there's hope".

They may be wise words but .... what did the Romans do for us?

By the time I post this blog I should be back at home with my feet up!

Photo - Sunset over Rome.

Day 83 - Lunedi 1 luglio 2013

At rest in Rome.

REVIEW.

Thinking back to when I started on 10th April with David I had a very lose plan. I knew my route but had no schedule or booked accommodation. i just knew I had a three month timespan. I didn't quite know how I would endure the routine of daily cycling. As it's turned out I have managed the cycling without too many problems. Physically I have managed it better than I thought and could keep cycling day after day without any problem. I don't feel that I am now fitter than when I started but I suspect that my cycling stamina is quite a bit better. I said early in the blog that I enjoy the process of moving around by cycle rather than doing a circular route and ending up back where I started. In some respects I enjoyed the cycling days more than the rest days because cycling was my purpose.

I didn't have too many mechanical problems. I had a day with two punctures and later changed a tyre that was showing signs of wear. The worst problem was when my derailier twisted into my rear wheel. I was extremely grateful for the assistance given to me by a Slovenian guesthouse owner who drove me to the bike shop and stayed with me to be sure i got back on the road.

When David left me after the first week it was like my trip started because I had to become self reliant. The Loire area of France is familiar to me and I was keen to get to regions that I had no previously been to. It seemed to take a long time o get though France, its easy to forget how big a country it s, especially when I was following the twists and bends of the Loire and its tributaries.

I had been looking forward to getting into Germany and the highlights included seeing Cousin Matthew and Anne at Ulm, seeing Ian Anderson in concert and also the Dult bier festival at Regensburg. I did a detour from my route to Munich and thought it s a place that would be great or a city break.

Getting into Slovakia and Hungary was my first experience of a countries that had been in the Eastern Bloc. They felt a little rougher than the Western European countries I had been through but prices were cheaper. Bratislava was good because the hostel had a good mix of travelling people and I had a good night out with a couple of Aussies and a Yank.

I had a great week with Janice at Budapest. We hadn't planned a full week in advance, in fact my first plan was to turn south at Vienna and not go into Hungary at all. I thought that I might have seen Janice at Vienna but I was cycling further and faster than anticipated and as a result I extended the route to Budapest and saw Janice there. The Parliament, the Market Hall, the Castle area and Gellert Baths were the main highlights.

My next target was to travel back from Budapest through Croatia and Slovenia to get to Venice on dates that I had booked for Rebekah and John to come out. This part of the route took me away from any established cycle routes and I was in areas that did not get much tourism and even less cycling touring. I had to pick and chose my own routes and places to stay without any knowledge of the areas at all. It makes life interesting! Slovenia was the secret jewel of the trip. The countryside and more importantly the people were great. The people were friendly and helpful. They seemed to be very positive about their future in Europe and many spoke English extremely well because they considered it a skill that they needed individually and collectively to be successful. Ljubljana was especially good. The hostel was 'cool' and the city was compact, beautiful and interesting. The nightlife seemed lively and I managed a couple of Cuban concerts.

Cycling down into Trieste and seeing the Adriatic Sea was an exciting moment and it was also a quick switch from Eastern Europe to Italian culture. The weather also picked up from that day, from changeable weather that I had had from the start to a more sunny, hot Mediterranean climate.

It was super to visit Venice with Rebekah and John. Venice has long been on my list of places to visit and it certainly is a sight to behold. It's a bit like a place that it frozen in time. Cycling from there through northern Italy was hot, hot, hot! Afternoon temperatures were up to around 38 degrees. All the northern cities were impressive in different ways. Padua, Ferrara and Bologna were superb. I suspect that other nearby cities would also have been worth a visit too. It would be a good place for a future cycling trip, maybe a circular trip from Pisa (there's an idea for a new trip)!

I enjoyed the cycling over the hills from Bologna to Florence. Thankfully the temperatures had become more manageable, the air felt fresher higher up in the hills and the views were superb coming into Tuscany. Florence was busy when I arrived and on my rest day some of the museums were closed because it was a Monday, just my luck! I did see the Uffizi museum which I think it the most important one. It was well worth seeing and not a rip off on the price. The cathedral exterior dominates the city but was a tiny bit disappointing on the inside. Arezzo was a surprisingly good place to visit as well. It would be nice to go back and see the Joust contest.

The finale of my journey was Rome, it seemed a bit surreal because I don't often feel elated. I think I am probably too level headed! I had found out about Tavia's weekend to Rome a couple of weeks ago and initially I didn't think I would get to Rome in time but gradually realised I could do it and cycled the last few days at a pace to make sure I got to see them. It was a great end to the adventure.

I have enjoyed meeting new people along the way. I thought I might meet more touring cyclists than I did. I certainly didn't meet any from the UK. People that stand out are Phillipe who was cycling to the Black Sea, Etienne who was running from Germany into Austria and Ewald who cycled with me into Linz. There were many others who were friendly too. Hostels were by far the best places to meet people and strike up conversations. People at hostels are much more interested in each others travelling stories.

The blog has become part of the experience for me. I have actually enjoyed writing it on a daily basis, you can probably tell. It will help remind me of what I did, as some of it is already a blur in my mind. I have tried to keep the blog varied by including factual points of interest with my own style of nonsense! I have visited hundreds of churches. I included food, wine, philosophy, psychology, culture (of a kind) and music. I suppose my last musical nomination should be Simon and Garfunkel's 'Homeward Bound'.

I don't think that the magnitude of the trip will sink in till later. I have achieved something that I had doubted my ability to achieve. I was daunted by the 3 day Coast to Coast route never mind an 81 day, 4755km trek across Europe. Its surprising what you can do if you take things in stages, one day at a time and remember 'wherever you go, there you are'! I know Phileas Fogg went round the world in 80 days but he didn't do it under his own power! I feel proud to have completed it.

The big question is, 'would I do it again' or something similar? The answer is YES. I'm not sure what yet or for how long. I won't do anything too far from civilisation but European cycling is pretty safe and its always possible to get rescued if necessary.

I will have to start with ideas now for new trips. I fancy some shorter ones too, closer to home. Maybe the Isle of Man for a weekend or another trip on a ferry to Holland. If anyone fancies a cycle trip let me know. The vast majority of the route I have done could be cycled by people of any ability. It wasn't too difficult, it's just a case of how far you cycle each day and how many stops you take. I would encourage anyone to have a go at a section of the Euovelo 6 route on the Loire or Danube. It's possible to hire bikes and avoid the hassle of taking a bike on the plane.

If anyone wants to put an order in for me to bring them back an Italian ice cream then they better be quick! Let me know your favourite flavour! I won't lick it honest!

STOP PRESS - I have a bike box. It took me four hours of walking and five bikes shops to get one. It also means that I can catch my flight and I don't have to cycle home from here. I suspect that could be another 80 days!

Thank you again for the donations to St Mary's Hospice at Ulverston. The target figure has been well surpassed but more is gratefully received.

See you all soon

Photo 1, Starting off at the Atlantic mouth of the Loire with big brother.
Photo 2, David going back at Orleans.
Photo 3, Across the Rhine into Germany and Switzerland.
Photo 4, With Matthew and Anne at Ulm.
Photo 5, Dult festival at Regensburg.
Photo 6, With Janice at Budapest.
Photo 7, R & J & R in Venice.
Photo 8, Hostel at Florence.
Photo 9, Celebrating my arrival in Rome.
Photo 10, Cardboard Box.

Day 82 - Domenica 30 Giugno 2013

At Rome.

Last night I successfully met up with Tavia, Ian, Riccardo and Christian. We had a meal out, a walk back to the Trevi Fountain and drinks at a street bar. It was great to catch up with news and discuss family. We managed a bit of vino to celebrate the end of my ride.

I had decided to get up early to see the Sistine Chapel. It was the one thing that I hadn't seen on my last Rome visit that I wanted to see. The Vatican museum website told me it was open from 9am just for the morning on the last Sunday of the month and more importantly it was free admission! I knew the queues would growing well before opening time and I was up at 6am and got to the Vatican at 7am.

I stood outside St Peters and had a look around the Basilica by 7.30am and joined the Vatican Museum queue at 8am which was already 400m long and growing fast! I managed to get in two hours later but I was cheesed off by people pushing in the queue. I had been in the quiue for about an hour when it dawned upon me that almost none of the people around me had been in the queue when i joined it they had all sidled into the queue at some point r other. I was a bit bolshy with a few people who pushed in after that, sending them back. People around me started to approve but I thought to myself, 'bloody hypocrites'! This kind of stuff really spoils it for me. Some people are ignorant, at least hats what I called the people who pushed in!

Once inside I was pleasantly surprised with how much there was to see. It was a big place and the ceilings, paintings and furnishings were fantastic. We could take photos everywhere except the Sistine Chapel. Many of the rooms leading up to the Chapel were just as grand but on a smaller scale. I managed to sneak a picture in the Sistine Chapel but it doesn't do any justice to the room or the artwork. Whilst I enjoyed the chapel and the museum, I think it is criminal what the church did with its wealth for its own glorification at a time when people were so poor and needy!

I walked back to the accommodation feeling shattered. The walking s tougher than cycling! Each time I walk to or from the city I go through Borghese Park which is a nice walk and there are four seater bikes available for hire. When we were here as a family we hired on the last day of our trip. I was sure I was the only person pedalling as it was hard work and the park isn't flat. I noticed that the bikes have electrically assisted pedalling now, what's the world coming to!

I got back to the room and had a snooze, wonderful!

You will know that I am still in need of a cardboard box to transport my cycle in. I knew this would be the tricky part of the travelling. It's not only getting a box that it will fit into, it involves dismantling the pedals and handlebars, taping it up and then getting it to the airport. All cycle shops n Italy are closed on a Sunday and most seem closed on Monday mornings too, till about 3.30pm in the afternoon. It makes me a little nervous about the whole process. I have found a couple of bike shops that look open in the morning so I will give them a try and keep my fingers crossed!

I have also been thinking about my packing. My front bag will go into a pannier, one pannier will be luggage in the hold and one pannier will be hand luggage.

I am very pleased to say that today the target amount for St Mary's Hospice has been reached. I know that there are still a few who still wish to donate, so keep it coming. I really want to thank everyone for their donations and for there moral support by email, texts and Skype. It's been great.

I will try and review my trip in tomorrow's blog. I haven't a clue what I'm going to write yet but it will either be deep and meaningful or shallow and frivolous, it may depend on whether I get the cardboard box or not!


Photo 1, Meeting up with Tavia, Ian, Riccardo and Christian. Nice meal out.
Photo 2, Worth getting up early for!
Photo 3, St Peters at the Vatican.
Photo 4, Inside St Peters.
Photo 5, In the Vatican museum.
Photo 6, Nice bit of Raffael.
Photo 7, Courtyard at Vatican Museum.
Photo 8, Sneaky picture in Sistine Chapel.
Photo 9, St Peters Square filling for Papa Franscesco's Mass.
Photo 10, Spot the Indian guys doing the illusion.

Day 81 - Sabato 29 Giugno 2013

From - Civita Castellana
To - Rome
Distance - 61km
Time - 3.5 hours
Final total - 4755km

HEADLINES IN ROME TRIBUNE

RICHARD GLUTEUS MAXIMUS ENTERS ROME TRIUMPHANT

'Like a conquering Emperor at the head of his Legion Richard pedalled into Rome triumphantly after completing an epic ride of 4755km through territory of the Gauls, the Vandals, the Goths, the Magyars, the Slavs and the Etruscans. When asked to sum up his mammoth task he said "Veni, vidi, vici". He will into the annuls of history alongside Hannibal!'

I expected Russell Crowe in full Gladiator outfit to be ready waiting for me but no sign of him so far. Although I did spot some look-alikes.

The ride was undulating and I managed an extra bit of energy from somewhere to push along at a good speed. There was actually a nice cycle path along the Tiber into Rome centre and into Borghese Park which is a park that we walked through everyday when we visited here with Sue and the kids, probably about 6 years ago.

I went to the cycle shop that I emailed about getting a cardboard box for the transportation of the bike. It was closed! Today is St Paul's Day and a lot of places are closed as a result, including bike shops it seems! It is open on Monday afternoon! There is no point trying other cycle shops because they will be closed too.

I got to my 5th Floor accommodation and it was very pleasant. I managed to get my bike vertically into the lift and avoided the hassle of carrying it up the stairs.

Here is a quick message to those people who have been holding back on the donation - GET YOUR CREDIT CARD OUT! (I know some people are doing cash or cheques rather than the Internet). Last reminder of the Internet link is - www.justgiving.com/R-Vernon

On my way into Rome I was singing 'Volare' by Dean Martin. I somehow associate him and Frank Sinatra with Rome, maybe its the mafia connection. Other songs might be appropriate like 'My Way' but it could be 'Little Old Wine Drinker Me!'

I had. Little walk through Borghese Park and into the city just to get some bearings again. Once I found the Spanish Steps and the Trevino Fountain I felt I had arrived properly. I am looking forward to seeing Tavia and family and having a meal with them.

I was looking for a T shirt present for John that says "My Dad cycled round Europe for 80 days and all I got was this shitty T shirt" but no luck yet!

I'm watching the first day of the Tour de France whilst doing the blog. They could have waited for me! Its at Corsica which isn't too far away. My training programme is over and I am fit and available. Looking at the pictures I am sure I could keep up with my panniers on, no trouble! I am also having some celebratory Peroni beer, nuts and spicy olives before going to meet Tavia et al.

I will carry on with the blog till I get home. Not sure if I will do it every day but I will look back on my trip.

Photo 1, View on the way to Rome.
Photo 2, I guess I've arrived.
Photo 3, Celebrating at the accommodation.
Photo 4, Villa Borghese.
Photo 5, Fountain at Spanish Steps.
Photo 6, Found Russell Crowe at last!
Photo 7, Trevi Fountain.
Photo 8, Happy chap! I did it my way!

Day 80 - Venerdì 28 Giugno 2013

From - Orvieto
To - Civita Castellana
Distance - 82km
Time - 5.5 hours
Total - 4694km

It's difficult to think I have been doing this for 80 days. It's frightening and its even more frightening that you have been reading this blog! I'm just starting to warm up to the cycling and its coming to an end. One more cycling day tomorrow.

It was a nice hotel and an even better breakfast. This is what I had - muesli, blackberry and bilberry compote, bacon and scrambled eggs, bread and jam, fruit tart, lemon cake and croissant! There was also, ham, salami and cheese which took with some bread buns for a sandwich later.

The ride was 'interesting' today to say the least. The first 4km were no problem because I didn't have to do any pedalling. It was the reverse of the hill climb I did yesterday to get into Orvieto but a lot quicker. All was going well till I did my first major hill climb of the day. I was congratulating myself for staying with a steep hill in granny gear when I reached the town of Giove at the top and I consulted my map to find that I should have turned right 2km back. I said to myself 'By Giove' and similar but not so moderate language. I went back down the hill to an unsigned minor road and took it. It took me further downhill and became gravelly. It then became rocky and had big holes in it and puddles. This is on the Eurovelo 7 route and my map showed it as a road but I would strongly dispute it. All the time I knew this downhill was going to be followed by a big, big uphill. I got through the puddles and rocks slowly and was then confronted by the hill. It was undoubtedly the steepest I have had all trip and I pushed the bike up most of it and that was a tough task. I was getting bothered by flys and the heat. Sweat was dripping down the insides of my sunglasses. I got to a section that was a little less steep and started to ride again only to be chased by two barking dogs. I couldn't shake them off because I couldn't go any faster and in actual fact I was knackered and couldn't keep it up. Thankfully we went past a house and a man shouted at the dogs and they left me alone. I thought that things couldn't get worse but cheered myself up with the thought that at least I didn't get a puncture or some other mechanical problem.

From the top of that hill I still came down slowly because it was still loose gravel. I came back to a proper road and saw a photo opportunity and nipped onto the other side of the road. Just as I was doing the manoeuvre a car came round the bend, so I had to quickly ride onto the verge, I hit a rut and fell off! I scratched my shins only and felt rather stupid.

I noticed occasional single ladies sitting at the roadside in remote locations. I thought they must be waiting for a lift. I stopped and offered one a 'backie' but she wanted to charge me 20 euros for the pleasure. I guess a backie means something different in Italy! I think they were touting for something more than a tandem ride!

I arrived at Civita Castellana (surprisingly it means City of the Castle) which like many places has the old town and a new town. I had splashed out on a posh hotel, partly because there didn't seem to be many alternatives here. The old town looks a bit grubby but still has character. I got cleaned up at the hotel and went for a little walk.

I did the tour of the Fort Sangallo in Italian and found out that this area had its own Falaise civilisation between 6th and 2nd Centuries BC. They did a lovely line is pottery and bronze. The Fort was much more recent but was used as a museum for the archeological stuff and there is a plaque to Robert Baden Powell outside the gates!

I was having a discussion with my brother David last night on the subject of 'fine art', not a subject we often talk about. He told me of someone in France whose elderly relative had met Picasso. The person told a story that Picasso was making no money for his normal style paintings and 'as a joke' he started to paint what is now known as his style and now that joke art is worth millions. Picasso couldn't believe his luck but didn't admit it publicly. I have seen hundreds of fantastic paintings, some are considered masterpieces worth millions and some are hanging on church walls with no acclaim or security. I can't always see what sets the famous masterpieces apart from the others? Why is the Mona Lisa so special when many other paintings are technically just as well painted? I suspect it is the stories that arty people weave about particular paintings and artists that makes the difference and not purely the quality of the painting style. I told David that the world of fine art is full of 'baloney" (meaning waffle, not the Bologna sausages). You can tell I'm a real art buff.....not!

One thing I don think I told you is that I am meeting my cousin Tavia and her husband Ian and grown up children Christian and Ricardo. Tavia emailed that they had booked a weekend in Rome. Tomorrow I am meeting them at the Spanish Steps and then going out for the evening. It will be a great way to celebrate the end of my epic journey.

Photo 1, My hotel breakfast room, photo taken from the balcony.
Photo 2, Town Hall of a small town I cycled through.
Photo 3, One of the last Tuscany...ish views.
Photo 4, Inside nice church near Orte.
Photo 5, This is the photo I was going to take when I fell off. I hope you appreciate the danger I took to take it!
Photo 6, Main Piazza at Civita Castellana.
Photo 7, Forte Sangallo - with a town called Castellana it must have a fort!
Photo 8, Cathedral.
Photo 9, Naughty me having nothing but cakes for tea!
Photo 10, Plaque of Robert Baden Powell.

Day 79 - Giovedi 27 Giugno 2013

From - Chiusi
To - Orvieto
Distance - 53km
Time - 3.5 hours
Total - 4611km

After last nights rain it was beautiful and sunny in the morning and pleasantly fresh. The accommodation did o breakfast so I went in search of food in the new Chiusu town and the supermarket was still not open till 8.30am so I found a little bakers shop and had a couple of pastries, water and a coffee, It was very cheap too. I bought a sandwich and slice of spicy pizza for lunch. I went in search of Eurovelo 7 again and when I fond it it was so stoney that I decided to stick to a road that ran fairly parallel.

The first climb was to the town of Ficulle and then down and up again before a long descent towards Orvieto. It dawned on me that I have come from Cumbria, cycled over 4500km and the only difference between home and here is a missing letter 'C' ..... because I am now in Umbria! The countryside is equally beautiful.

I got sight of Orvieto up on its hilltop. It looked so close but getting there was still an issue. I had to ride 4km up a steep hill to get to the old town n top of a hill plateau. They had recently resurfaced th road up which made it nice and smooth rather than the cracked and bumpy roads I had been on. Once at the top I made my way to the towns famous Duomo with its renowned facade. I didn't go in, I did that later after I had booked in the hotel. The facade is worth a visit by itself. I will let the pictures show it rather than use my poor descriptive abilities. First impressions of the town are wonderful. I sat at a cafe looking at he Duomo and tried the Orvieto white wine.

I remember this wine from my teenage years when I worked at the Belvedere Italian Restaurant in Read near Burnley. Orvieto white was the wine of choice for fish and chicken dishes. I learned a full range of Italian swear words whilst working there. I used to love the cannelloni and the veal dishes.

I got to my nice hotel in the centre on Via Garibaldi. I have been waiting for Garibaldi's name to pop up because I remember him from school history. He is a very interesting character. He was born in Nice and travelled to Northern Africa and to South America where he commanded the Uruguay navy, he got interested in the unification of Italy but lost the first attempt. He travelled to New York and then to Tyneside (I don't know why!). He went back to Italy and managed a partial win in the second war of unification and later managed to kick the Pope out of most of Rome (except the Vatican)! He has an Italian Aircraft Carrier named after him but more importantly he has a biscuit named after him. I would like a biscuit named after me, it's quite an achievement! I think he must have had a good PR agent behind him, certainly a celebrity of his time.

In the afternoon I visited the Duomo and felt the Grumpy Pizza coming back. I didn't mind too much the entry fee of 3 euros although the vast majority of churches are free, even the one at Florence but they banned the taking of photos!! That to me going. There seems to be a big inconsistency in churches and museums about the use of cameras. I fully understand they don't want people using flash photography at works of art but people know that and don't use flash photography. I got grumpy at the payment desk and asked why, of course the woman couldn't answer apart for saying it wasn't her decision. I was so grumpy that I took pictures anyway whilst the two attendants were looking! I am getting bolshy in my old age! Sorry, not so old age! The Duomo is fantastically beautiful though and I much preferred it to the one at Florence.

I made a walking tour of my own around the whole town including a visit to St Patricks well. I was grumpy again because a notice at the top of the street said it was 2 euros and when I got to the well it was 5 euros! I didn't go in!

The views from around the perimeter of the town are outstanding. Is joyed walking all areas of the town.

I had a nice meal out in the evening, only spoiled by three young Americans who were totally ignorant of anyone around them. They watched there mobile phones constantly occasionally playing the sound aloud and they only grunted at the waiter. I am still being grumpy......not really because I enjoyed the meal. I had one last evening walk before going back the room and watching Italy versus Spain at football, should be a good game.

Only two riding days left. I can't believe it!

Photo 1, Town of Ficulle at he top of a steep hill.
Photo 2, County views.
Photo 3, Fortezza at the eastern side of the town.
Photo 4, Duomo di San Brizio.
Photo 5, The facade.
Photo 6, Orvieto white wine, well deserved I must say!
Photo 7, Narrow town streets with bell tower in the background, believed to be the oldest in Italy.
Photo 8, Altar area of the Duomo, fantastic frescos on the walls.
Photo 9, A side chapel of the Duomo.
Photo 10, Another view from the Fortezza.

Day 78 - Mercoledì 26 giu 2013

From - Arezzo
To - Chiusi
Distance - 63km
Time - 4 hours
Total - 4556km

Nice easy cycling today mainly along Eurovelo 7. I got to the place on the map where I was joining the route and found nothing but overgrown trees and grass with no sign of a path! I worked my way around it about 50 feet further on and to my surprise found a track. Even more astounding was the cycle path sign I found about 1km further on. The path was pretty clear and properly signed all the way to Chiusi. It followed a canal that helps to irrigate the land that was previously marsh area. The route was called Sentiero Della Bonifica which I through might be something to do with Saint Boniface but it means the Path of the Reclaimed Land.

The sun was pleasant and there were a few clouds around, so all in all, it was perfect for cycling. I arrived at Chiusi at lunchtime and of course the old town is at the top of a hill which was the only hill of the day for me. The views are lovely. The old town is compact with a few churches and museums to fill my time. The whole place seemed to be closed with no-one around. I got into my accommodation which is an old college building and offers rooms with no food. My room is pleasant and spacious. I had a shower and then ventured out to see what there was to see.

It didn't take too long to walk around the whole town. The shops were closed, a few cafes remained open but hardly anyone around. At 2pm I spotted a man unlocking the door to the tourist information which was due to open at 3pm and I told him I would come back in an hour but he said I could come in now. I think he was delighted to have someone in his office because I don't think he would get many customers today. He told me the weather has been poor and tourists are not coming like they used to a few years ago. He told me the opening times for a couple of museums I was interested in. One opened at 3.15pm and the other at 4pm. I went to the 3.15pm Civic Museum and I couldn't believe there was a queue and the tour was full. I hadn't seen enough people in the whole town to make such a queue, where had they come from?

Chiusi was an old Etruscan City that had prosperity in the reign of King Porsenna in the 6th century BC. In his reign there were some tunnels dug under the city for water supply and the tunnels are still available to be seen today. The city then came under the Roman Empire and later controlled by the Lombards who allowed the city to decline.

The Cathedral of San Secondiano is fantastic inside. The ceiling is wooden but all the walls and are covered by mosaic pictures using tiny coloured stone pieces. There are old Roman columns separating the side aisles from the centre, they came from various sites and they are all different with different style capitals at the top.

I did the tour of Porsenna's Labyrinth and then climbed the bell tower. I was the only visitor and the guide didn't speak English but she gave me the tour in French instead! i understood most of what she said and later read a guide book which confirmed my understanding. The underground passages are connected to the tower and climbed to the top for panoramic views. Later I went back to the Civic Museum tour which had been booked up earlier (I found out it was a large party of German tourists). The tour took us down some different underground passages and we saw over 300 Etruscan cremation urns. If you want to know how much does an Etruscan Urn, well it's about 10 Euros an hour!! I can still hear Morecambe and Wise doing that gag.

It's been raining again. I really will have to send a strongly worded letter to the Italian Prime Minister about the weather! I don't mind because it helps to keep the temperature down and it's usually sunny in the morning and good for riding.

The song of the day is 'Distance' by a band called Cake. It's good, take my word for it, and its about 'going the distance' which I am doing.

To Orvieto tomorrow, its not far and I will have to try the white wine that it is famous for.

Photo 1, Start of Eurovelo 7!
Photo 2, A sign at last!
Photo 3, A bit early for a sunflower field.
Photo 4, Nearly there. FDJ are a French cycling team, just in case you were wondering?
Photo 5, Lago di Chiusi.
Photo 6, First view of Chiusi, why do they build towns on hills?
Photo 7, San Secundiano Cathedral outside.
Photo 8, San Secundiano on the inside.
Photo 9, View from the top of the Bell Tower.
Photo 10, Etruscan Cremation Urns from approx 3-2 century BC in underground passages.